Champagne has never been more popular. Even though it continues to be very expensive — and even more so at the current exchange rates —Champagne has increased in sales every year. And new importers in China, Russia and other countries with growing economies are demanding this luxury drink, making the supply even scarcer, which only further increases prices.

Champagne comes from a very delimited region in northern France. Nowhere else is a winemaker entitled to use the name Champagne on the bottle. So, Champagne is a prestigious drink, very-labor intensive to produce, in high demand and, thus far, price has not been a deterrent to sales.

One can hardly think of Champagne without also thinking of celebrations. That Champagne has become synonymous with celebrations has always seemed a mystery to me. Yes, the sound of the cork popping, the tiny bubbles that make their way up the glass, the yeasty aroma and the cool, crisp tang on the tongue all are part of the party mode, but, still, Champagne is so food-friendly that I wonder why it isn’t served year-round and not just at special occasions.

There is hardly a food that doesn’t match well with Champagne — appetizers most certainly, but it is also great with seafood, pasta and even sets off a hearty stew with a cool, refreshing sip.

It is even great with popcorn while you watch your favorite movie on TV. So why restrict Champagne to just a celebration? The only possible reason has to do with the price. Maybe spending $40-$50 (and more) for a bottle of Champagne automatically puts it in the category of “for special occasions.”

There are several alternatives to the costly but truly exceptional Champagnes available on today’s market. Other sparkling wines produced in France are no longer allowed to use the “methode champenois” on their label and must now use the terminology “methode traditional,” but it means the same thing; made in the style of Champagne.

Many of these are produced in Alsace, the Loire Valley and other places in France and are delightful. Generally not made from Pinot Noir or Chardonnay but other grapes grown in the region, these sparkling wines are generally around $20 a bottle and are a quite fitting substitute for real Champagne.

Quite respectable sparkling wines also are being produced in California, often by the same owners as those venerable Champagne houses in France — names like Roederer, Moët & Chandon, and Mumm.

Then, of course, there are the huge Cava producers in Spain that make sparkling wines that are great bargains but delightful to sip — names like Codurniu, Friexenet, Cristalino, and others, in the $10-$15 range. And don’t forget, we have a sparkling wine producer in Michigan that has won national acclaim; Larry Mawby, with vineyards near Traverse City.

So, there is no shortage of sparkling wine available, and there will be more corks popped on New Year’s Eve than any other day in the year.

So, while I may sample sparkling wines year round and not just on special occasions, I understand completely the need to “do something special” on New Year’s Eve. So this year I have selected one of my favorites, Perrier-Jouët Grand Brut Épernay. The aroma is one of dried apricots and toasted oak. There is a clean fruit-like texture that leads into a creamy effervescence, where the peach and apricot flavors are delicate and light. The tiny bubbles tease the tongue and the slightly mineral and crisp acid refresh the palate. In the end there is just a touch of sweetness lingering, inviting another sip of the great Champagne.

Perhaps all that explains the mystique of Champagne. I can think of no way better to toast in 2008. Here’s to another great year; many more wines to taste and the sheer joy of discovering them.

Dave Ethridge is a nationally known wine writer, certified wine judge, and the director of the Lapeer Chapter of Tasters Guild International.

More Tips